Linus wrote:
Is anyone here using hand planes to thickness their sides/backs/tops here? If so, how are you securing the panels? Butting panels against stops or bench dogs is typical for thickness planing but the thicknesses we aim for here are thinner than any bench dogs I've ever seen.
Do you just use clamps and move them around as you work the panel? How do you prevent cracking, blowouts, and breakage when the panels are so thin?
Thanks! I'd love tips, hints, pics of what you do.
Do you just use clamps and move them around as you work the panel? How do you prevent cracking, blowouts, and breakage when the panels are so thin?
Thanks! I'd love tips, hints, pics of what you do.
For many years I just did what most folk were doing, clamping and planing away from that clamp. Not only does it slow you down but you also find yourself planing against the grain. I tried a number of ways to get around the issue. Someone suggested chalking the surface. It didn't quite work. After a few other attempts I came up with a solution to rid myself of the clamps. Actually I don't know what took me so long. Years previously I had made a holder for fretboards. I could mount the holder in the vice and plane away until I reached the desired thickness. It didn't rely on any clamps.
The procedure for planing Backs and Sides was virtually the same, make a 'holder'.
That's the one for a Side. The smaller one next to it is my original fretboard blank holder. I also have one for doing Back halves. They all mount in the vice. . . . . OK the vise.
You plane across the grain. That is extremely important. If you plane with the grain it is likely to buckle and crack.
You want a relatively lightweight plane, forget those heavy metal things. They just slow you down too much. The first plane should be a true Jack plane. A Jack plane is (or rather was) primarily used for preparing material - removing that material so the smoother could do it's job. There's not a lot subtle about a Jack plane. It's a strongly cambered blade, retracted chipbreaker and it should be frighteningly sharp. With such a set up you can remove wood fast, with little or next to no breakout.
So this is the Jack that I made, specifically for the task. It's a Linux plane, so very near to your user name:
Even an old man like me seems to be powered by Jet fuel when using this. Folk who have seen me use it dive for cover. Within the next few weeks I'm going to make a video of myself using it. I would make and sell you one of these 'Jet propelled planes' but they are mighty expensive. Instead I'll let you into a little tip that will save you money, lot's of it. Buy yourself an old (but good condition) transitional or wooden Jack Plane. Anything in the 12 to 14" category. No one wants them, so they are dirt cheap. Camber the blade and get it mighty sharp. Have at it.
You will probably need to fettle it to get it working it's best.
For Guitar Backs I thickness the two halves separately and join them whilst they are near to thickness - within 0.3 mm's or thereabouts.
I'm so impressed with the Linux Transitional, jet propeelled jack plane that I made myself a Linux smoother to go with it. Here it is planing highly figured Maple:
There's no way that a LN or Veritas Plane can do that. Not a hope.
